Last updated: 26 August 2026

Replacing halogen downlights with LED

Halogen downlights were in almost every Australian home, and since halogen was phased out in 2020, most people are switching them to LED to cut power use and heat. Sometimes that's a simple globe swap — and sometimes it's a job for a qualified electrician. This guide explains which situation you're in before you buy.

First, work out what you have

Old downlights come in two main types, and the replacement path is different for each:

Low-voltage MR16 (12V). The globe has two thin straight pins and runs through a transformer hidden in the ceiling cavity. Most older halogen downlights are this type.
Mains-voltage GU10 (240V). Two chunky pins you twist to lock, running straight off mains power — no transformer.

Not sure which you've got? Take the globe out and look at the pins, or use our bulb base finder. Our GU10 vs MR16 guide covers the difference in detail.

Option 1: swap the globe (MR16 → LED MR16)

If you have MR16 and just want LED light, the cheapest route is an LED MR16 globe in the existing fitting. The catch: an LED draws a fraction of the power a halogen did, and many old transformers have a minimum load the LED can't meet — so the new globe flickers, buzzes, or won't light at all. Some LED MR16 globes are made to work with old transformers; check the packaging says so. If a like-for-like swap works, great — that part is a DIY globe change. If it doesn't, the transformer is the problem, and that's electrical work (below).

Option 2: move to GU10 or an integrated LED downlight

The more reliable long-term fix is to remove the transformer and switch to mains-voltage GU10 globes, or to fit integrated LED downlights (a sealed unit where the LED isn't replaceable, but which lasts many years). Both mean changing the fitting and wiring — electrical work for a qualified electrician. Downlights also sit against ceiling insulation, so correct installation matters for fire safety.

Why LED downlight globes flicker or won't light

Nearly always, it's the transformer mismatch described above, or a dimmer that isn't LED-compatible. Before assuming the globe is faulty, read why LED bulbs flicker — it's usually the setup, not the globe. A qualified electrician can replace an incompatible transformer or fit an LED driver.

What to buy

Once you know the fitting, choose the light itself the same way as any globe:

Brightness — downlights are typically 500–700 lumens each; more for kitchens. See our watts to lumens calculator.
Colour — warm white (2700–3000K) for living areas, a little cooler (3500–4000K) for kitchens and bathrooms. See warm white vs cool white.
Insulation contact — if the downlights touch ceiling insulation, they should be an IC-rated type; a qualified electrician can advise.

The bottom line

A straight globe-for-globe swap in a working fitting is the only part that's DIY. Anything involving the transformer, wiring, or changing the fitting is a qualified electrician's job. Rules vary by country: in Australia this work must legally be done by a licensed electrician, while in the UK some of it is regulated. Either way, a qualified electrician is the safe choice — and downlights against insulation are a genuine fire-safety area.